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Rob on Some Restaurants

First: Places Only Locals Know that you might pass up, but have truly Extraordinary and Fabulous food difficult to find except at other locals-only dives. i.e. not a listing of haute cuisine.

 

Barbecue

I've only been to two places REALLY worthy of mention, and both are very easy to pass up if you don't know already. I haven't really explored the South, Texas, and the Southwest gustatorily, so my apologies... but finding good barbecue in those places shouldn't be too much of a problem! For the rest of us:

 

Porter House Grille in Cambridge, Massachusetts (next to Boston), on Massachusetts Avenue near Porter Square. Their hot (and milder) sauces and ribs are great, and they know how to make real cornbread-- don't you normally just leave it? You won't here! Hot stuff is hot, and no matter what you order, you will be licking your fingers. A favorite of locals, and no wonder.

 

Everett & Jones (E&J) on the west coast in Berkeley, California, and is just a little white brick structure around a little brick oven, and you hear an ear-splitting "CHOP...CHOPCHOP...CHOP" from the kitchen across the counter area the whole time, but WOOW. This is real down-home barbecue! Very different from the refined Porter House.
Lately, E&J BBQ is known as a central support hangout for American Idol star LaToya London. I go to the one on University and San Pablo (away from the campus toward 880, 1955 San Pablo Ave; 548-8261) but they have opened up several other locations in the SF Bay Area. Try Ribs and Links combo with the sauce Hot... and it really is hot... Ribs & Links are incredible here. Play the jukebox. [news flash: Everett & Jones has really been successful while I've been away... they're expanding and for a while recently opened an upscale location in the San Jose Arena where the Sharks hockey team plays; they have since moved out and I must say they are sorely missed; the replacement is just not the real thing. The stadium hot BBQ sauce did not use to be as spicy as their "real" Berkeley location, but I went back in January, 1999, and it was ***hot***! Even hotter than I remember Berkeley being! If you're at San Jose Arena for the Sharks game, go early and eat dinner there! They're planning a San Jose location as well as a San Francisco one. Awesome... I wish them the sisters (each has a restaurant) the best of luck!] Locations: Berkeley, CA, 1955 San Pablo Ave., 548-8261; Dublin, CA, 7083 Village Parkway, 803-8568; Oakland, CA, 2676 Fruitvale Ave., 533-0900; Hayward, CA, 296 A Street, 581-3222; Oakland, CA 3415 Telegraph Ave., 601-9377; Oakland, CA, 8740 E. 14th St., 638-6400. Also: Oakland Coliseum and San Jose Arena.

 

Not as incredible but very very good was Rudy's... a chain out of Texas which dubs itself the worst BBQ in Texas... I ran into it in New Mexico off Route 40... very friendly, cafeteria-style.

 

 

Pizza

 

Tony and Alba's Pizza in San Jose, California. I go to the one on El Camino Real, but they have several locations in the SF Bay Area now. I've had deep dish, brick-oven, Chicago-style, sourdough, gourmet, and all of that elsewhere. This pizza is in another category altogether. Go now and get the "Tony's Gourmet" pizza... it's got green olives, black olives, prosciutto, and I forget what else. They also have a very garlic-ky pizza made with Gilroy Garlic (Garlic capital of the country-- go to their annual Garlic Festival). Go now to Tony &Albas, and get their "Gourmet" because I know you don't believe me yet. Go! A collection of local football & soccer memorabalia too.

 

Ethnic Food

Gonbei (Japanese) in San Jose, CA. Most Japanese restaurants are too-fancy-payalot-notsogood. Gonbei is not-fancy, reasonable, and very good. This is real cooking, like you would get at home in Japan. No advertising, but always a very long line, so you know it's good, no reservations. In Japantown a few doors down from San Jose Tofu, one of the few places (in Japan or US) which has hand-made tofu. Also see the Manju shop on the same street--that's something you won't find in too many places in this country! These three places make this better than San Francisco's big and flashy Japantown.

 

3-6-9 Taiwanese Cafe (Chinese) in Milpitas, CA (next to San Jose). Why the numeral name? I don't know. But this again is real Chinese. Not americanized pour-starchy-sweet-sauce over rice, nor a dim-sum place. Pan fried pea-sprouts? Seafood Casseroles? Fermented (smelly) Tofu? Pig's Intestine Hot Pot? Green Garlic Smoked Pork? And a wide variety of authentic Chinese breads and buns? Am I dreaming, don't wake me up! Get the fried roll sesame bun (no, not a la hamburger), million-layer bun, pan-fried onion breads, pea-sprouts (not on the English menu), and sea-food casserole. The fermented tofu was too much. Only Chinese people in this place; I'm Japanese and I stick out there... talk about authentic... Did I forget to mention the rolled pan-fried sesame bun? Get the bun! Even if you're full!

 

Miyake Sushi - I call it "Disco Sushi" - in northern San Jose/Bay area, near Stanford... Check back and I'll have the full details like address. Waiters screaming at each other, at the chefs, and at you in Japanese at the top of their non-Japanese lungs, the whole restaurant counting down sake shots for the rowdy table in the corner (even during the early-dinner crowd), awesome sushi (good rice & fish, and some creative rolls-- the Wisconsin roll has cheese...), and friendly dance music pounding away. Are you chic enough? The trend has spread already.

Soon du Bu - Honolulu, Hawaii. (This may not be it's real name) I have not found a single restaurant in anywhere, including california, like this. It speciallizes in Korean Spicy Tofu Soups. The soup stock is made from scratch, and the heat level can be specified to be very very hot, if the proprietor actually believes you can take it... if you're not Korean, you may emphasize that you really want the Korean-"hot", not american-"hot". The hot is bright red, and means business! Even their "medium" is far beyond a typical american restaurant's notion of "hot." They've added more to their menu, but I heartily recommend definitely sticking with their Pork, Seafood, or combo Soon du Bu,which is served fresh and bubbling from the oven in a cast-iron bowl. Free kimchee & rice, all you can eat! What a bargain, for under eight dollars! Don't look it up in the phone book, it's not there! The signs are all in Korean, so I don't know what their name really is! Just find Makaloa St, where it meets Keeaumoku just behind Tower Records (on Kapiolani behind Ala Moana Shopping Center). Across the street from Tower Records, on Makaloa are two Korean restaurants, both holes in the wall. Soon du Bu is the one with the Logo of a man eating soup, smiling, and sweating from how hot the soup is. It's cute. The owner's sister runs some french restaurant in San Francisco... Take out: (808) 946-8206.

Piece of Meat

Cafe Budapest in Boston, MA. Okay, this one is definitely not a hole in the wall nor a secret, and all the locals know it and it costs a fortune to have dinner there. It's a very high end Hungarian place, and get the Tournedos. Now that's a piece of meat you can't buy at the grocer's! (BTW tournedos are barded & tied meats.) Everything else is excellent of course, but there are many places in Boston for excellent food... but what a piece of meat this is... Dress code. I've also had pretty unusually darned good steaks at a chain, Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, they're located across the US, try the filet.

 

Random Boston

Dom's (Italian) what will be your reaction when a stranger sits down at your table a strikes up a conversation? That's your waiter silly! It may even be Dom himself. Entrees $15-25 if I remember correctly. The slow-cooked *pure* garlic spread is a must-- keep getting refills. Dress up and bring a large party if you can (try to bring any bona-fide Italian), and the zambuca will flow... share with the neighboring table. Free limousine service back to your pad. Also for Sunday brunch, the Hampshire House has a fun classy Jazz Brunch. The live music is intimate and fun. Upstairs from the Bull & Finch Pub, a.k.a. Cheers. By the Commons. Also see my comments on Porter House Grille and Cafe Budapest, in the "Barbecue", and "Piece of Meat" sections above; these are located in the Boston area as well.

 

Recommendations in NYC from Carol Shelly Magic Agency.

Shelly gave me four choice places to hit the next time I visit NYC: For BBQ, Brother Jimmy's on the Upper East Side in the 70's on 1st Ave. For Japanese, Tokubei on 85th St. Between 1st & 2nd Ave. For Mexican, May Mescal on 86th St. between 1st & 2nd. And lastly, for Thai, try Sala Thai on 2nd Ave. Between 89th &90th St. And of course if you need to book any and all varieties of awesome big magic acts (comedy, sleight-of-hand, more), call Shelly, her agency should be listed in the NY (212) directory.

 

Sausage

Pleva's Meats, The Sausage Capital! If you're ever in the Detroit Metro area, drive north to Cedar, MI, because boy is it worth it! As you go up the lake, the urban milieu recedes and you are left with a cherry growing area on land, and a fishing area on the water. This is a bonafide family-run little sausage shop, except it's not so little. Its claim to fame is that they incorporate local cherry meat into the sausages for a healthy alternative-- you absolutely can't taste the cherries-- in fact it is said that McDonald's has approached them regarding their cherry-in-meat formula for a healthier burger! Anyhow for us folk: GET THE CHRISTMAS SAUSAGE-- it is a very lightly spiced, long-link coiled sausage that even people who hate sausage will love... and I mean *L-O-V-E*. Also, all sorts of brats, hots, and for those of you who love sausage and bad breath, ask them to reach into their bottle for their large (3" diameter) PICKLED BOLOGNA. MMMMMmmmmmMMMMMM!!! I don't know if they do mail order, but they should-- this is one place Chuck Williams should "discover" for his catalog (Williams Sonoma)!!! I've had small-shop sausages before, but Pleva's is really special! Call Ray & Marge Pleva at (616) 228-5000. Fax (616) 228 7052. Pleva's Meats; 8974 South Kasson St. PO Box 42; Cedar, MI 49621. Open M-F 8-6, Sat 8-5, Closed Sun. HANDMADE OLD FASHIONED SAUSAGE SINCE 1946.

 

Souflee

Cafe Jacqueline, San Francisco, CA. The entrees and desserts are... souflees. Very small and intimate location in downtown, so make reservations. It's not cheap, so if it's too pricey for your tastes, at least just go there for dessert: souflees of chocolate, white chocolate, or grand marnier. Wonderful appetizers to precede the entree (usually gruyere-based) souflees, such as endive with roquefort. Okay it's snobby, but it's fun, yummy, and rushed piping hot straight from the oven.

Seattle

Coffee in Seattle: Seattle is the town of medium-roast coffee, where Starbucks is denigrated as: "Our motto is: 'Starbucks, where we roast our coffees so dark you can't tell them apart anymore!' " I know that may hurt; I love dark roasts too. But medium roast can be good, but I believe the window of freshness is much smaller to get a magical coffee experience. You Must Try Cafe Vivace , their main store in the Capitol Hill District, near Denny & Broadway. You walk in, and behind the counter, behind the people behind the counter, is a COFFEE ROASTER. Yup, they roast on site, and you CAN TASTE IT! Wow! I've never had medium roast this good, and I don't much care for medium roast! As a bonus, you get to feel cool, because other than the odd tourist, everybody here is young or young-at-heart & chic, from the people working here, to the people at the counter bar, tables, window seats, or just standing around. Your coolness factor has just gone through the roof, it rubs off.

By the way, if you're in Silicon Valley down in California, go to San Jose's Willow Glen district (i.e. Lincoln Avenue) and find San Jose Coffee Roasters. It's a tiny little unimposing shop, but just completely ignore that new Peets Coffee and Starbucks across the street. This is as good as Cafe Vivace, and blows away Peets & Starbucks completely and unquestionably... and mostly dark roast. Buy fresh beans roasted just hours ago. You can even buy green unroasted beans, and roast them yourself! (You can try that new coffee roaster in the Williams Sonoma catalog; I just use my toaster oven).

 

Vegetarian in Seattle: When I think vegetarian, I think about the so-so counter kitchen at your local health-food store. Sometimes fine, sometimes "yuck-ine" but definitely not a fine dining experience. At best, I think of one of California's original healthy-foods restaurants, The Good Earth, although that is not strictly vegetarian. Well, try Cafe Flora. Vegetarian, but any food lover, even if be a carnivore, will just *adore* the food here. This is a nice restaurant to go to for a "nice dinner," not fancy-shmancy, but ... wonderful. (2901 E. Madison; Seattle; 206 325 9100)

 

Unusual Cuisines in Seattle: Try Coastal Kitchen. Let me explain the concept. This is a nice little restaurant, very busy, very nice, chic, fun beers and wines. Half of their menu is damned good food, great combinations & presentation. However, their other half rotates every so often. Last time I was there the other half was Spanish Cuisine... complete with Spanish Wines on the wine list, and the decor of the entire restaurant also reflected Spain. (429 15th E. ; Seattle; 206 322 1145) Also try Kingfish Restaurant. I haven't been here, but it was recommended by the same food lover that introduced me to Coastal Kitchen and Cafe Flora, above. She described this as Black Southern Cuisine, very unusual to find a fancy presentation in a restaurant serving this style of food.

 

 

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What to do when you find yourself here:

 

'76 Gas Station's "Fastbreak" mini mart - Buy their plastic coffee car mug!!!! The '76 Fastbreak gas-station/minimart's coffee car-mug is the best I have ever seen or will ever want. At most, all others barely do their job of reducing the chance of utter hot drink disaster, but consider: these will still splash when knocked, are almost impossible to drink with when the coffee is too hot, are often too wide for your car holders, and in the event of being knocked over, will slowly but surely pour out its entire contents.

Not so the '76 Fastbreak mug! It has many awesome points, mainly that you can have 200 degree coffee and go jogging! This is because it's always closed unless you push the lever with your thumb at the top of the handle, so it won't spill when bumped or even knocked completely over. Its opening is recessed a half-inch below the top rim so as to create a small cache for hot liquid to gather and cool, like a big soup spoon! Furthermore, the hole when opened is merely an indirect opening between top lid and the levered layer, so the liquid can only dribble through. (You can really drink hot coffee, since you let it dribble, then cool before you sip in the cache, in controlled and tiny sip-quantities each time.)

The size of the cup is tall and tapered to soda-can diamater so it fits into various nooks in many cars. I know this sounds out of proportion, but it really is wonderful. I've been hopefully searching for a good car-cup for hot drinks for years, and this is it! If you don't get gas here, at least come once and just get the mug! (and some beef jerky, hot dog, beer nuts, and a local map). Great for tea as well (strains leaves)!

I have literally been searching for YEARS for a car cup this good! okay, end of my soapbox.

Hard Rock Cafe... OK, your friends are in town and they want to go to the local Hard Rock... mediocre food not worth the price? Believe it or not, just order the COUNTRY CLUB SANDWICH. I don't know why, it's the best thing on the menu... it's simple and they do it well... made with grilled chicken instead of turkey... everything else on the menu seems too unpredictable. Get a souvenir-glass drink to take home if you feel like splurging with your friends while they buy ne-pas-de-la-mode T-shirts... or buy one instead of dessert, it's much more useful in the long run (I recommend the Hurricane glass)... sip slowly.

 

Planet Hollywood... it's dead no matter how alive the video screen and loud music try to flog the patrons to life... go to Hard Rock instead if you like this sort of thing. If you really are stuck here, try to stick to their creative drinks or the few but good desserts. Appetizers and entrees are tiny and precisely processed. If you must eat, nachos are always safe and sizeable, and you won't feel as ripped off. If you're at the Mall of the Americas (in Minnesota), you may have the privelege of dining under a suspended replica of the naked Terminator Schwarzenneger. Yum. The more pedestrian Back-To-the-Future-DeLorean is in Honolulu.

 

TGIFs... aka Friday's. Not bad overall, not great. Try either any of their burgers (I get the make-your-own), or yes, CHICKEN FRIED STEAK. It looks and tastes good... I mean it's what you'd expect in the Denny's-of-your-dreams-- no less, no more. This one's a secret. Thank Goodness you know.

 

Arby's. Some locations allow the option of whole wheat buns. Also, if you find yourself in MAINE, you may run across one of the two Arby's owned by each of the original Arby brothers who started it all. They keep the quality high, and experimental new products often begin here. I know one is in Augusta, ME, and the other in Portland, ME.

 

The Charthouse. For dessert get the mud pie. It's so tall it's like a small mountain and you'll wonder how you'll eat it. You will. If you're from parts of the country with a Charthouse and know the drill, but find yourself in one in New England, just drool at those Lobster prices... Probably half of what you'd pay at a California Chart House, for example. If in Hawaii, see if you can get a Moon Fish (Opah) or Butter Fish. In fact, get whatever's local, e.g. soft-shelled crab in Baltimore. If there's a crowd, see if they have smoked fish and cheeses while you wait in the lounge.

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